Thought of the Day

Riding in the pursuit of happiness

Friday, September 26, 2014

Not quite 3,000 miles - Day 55: Panguitch Lake to Cedar City (42 miles)

We actually made it!

I love it when a good plan comes together. We arrived in Cedar City, our final destination on this Cranking Odyssey, this afternoon right on schedule, exactly on the day I planned all those months ago and timing it perfectly to get in before the impending thunderstorms struck.

For some reason, the first day and last day of this Odyssey seemed to feel so anti-climatic. Our first day seemed so rushed in our eagerness to get started, get on the road and just get through the first day; full of nervous excitement, not really knowing or fully understanding what lay ahead of us.

Today, I spent most of the day wishing it was not our last day on the road, not really wanting to reach our end point because I know and fully understand what comes after we finish this journey. Snap back to reality...

We even drew out the last 85 miles of the Odyssey into 2 days trying to delay the inevitable and savour the moment for just one more day. We could have pushed through to Cedar City yesterday, but it would have been a hard and miserable day, with a long, long, long uphill. We didn't want to end feeling miserable.

As it was, Steve still managed to have a partly miserable day, letting the Wyoming type winds that slapped us in the face as we climbed steeply uphill get to him. Then he'd check himself, remember it was our last day on the road, make himself just kick back and take in the enormity of what we had done.

Today was actually the day I had feared the most in Utah. People had told us that the climb into Cedar City was brutal. By stopping at Panguitch Lake overnight, we had broken the climb in half so we only had 19 miles to cover the 2,000 foot elevation gain from Panguitch Lake at 8,400 feet to Cedar Breaks National Monument at 10,400 feet.

Golden aspens colour the mountain

We had a lazy morning, delaying packing up our tent and loading up our bikes for the last time, watching the clouds move in fast over the mountain. It was a quiet morning on the road, with not many cars passing by except for the odd hunter in his pick up heading out for the kill and passing tourists.

The wind was at us right from the start, making it a slow climb and making us have to push with each pedal stroke that little bit harder. As we climbed higher and higher the wind got colder and colder, and we watched the aspens changing colour from green, to golden, to sunburnt orange until the trees were bare with just their spindly grey branches protruding, all their leaves having blown away in the wind.

It turned out to be a pretty hard climb (mainly because of the wind), but nothing we couldn't handle. I had saved granny gear in Utah for no reason, not even needing it on this ascent. Although the grades were steep, at least you get a break on your legs every now and then as the road deceptively makes you think you are rolling downhill in between as they lessen the gradient every mile or two.

Sunburnt orange fall foliage
Our peaceful ride through the trees

Cedar Breaks National Monument was a bit of a let down after all the wonderful canyons we had seen so far in Utah, but still impressive in its formations and colour. We stopped at a couple of View Points along the way thinking back to when we started riding in Oregon and how much we loathed these two words because it meant a climb was ahead of us - a climb so small and at such a low elevation in comparison to what we accomplished in Colorado and Utah.

Cedar Breaks National Monument
Our highest elevation reached in Utah
Point Supreme Viewpoint
Wishing it wasn't all about to end

The descent into Cedar City was by far our longest and cruisiest on this entire ride, a fun and fitting end to this journey - 20 miles of sweet downhill, coasting around the windy bends through the canyon gorge along Coal Creek. We were enjoying these final moments of the ride so much, we didn't bother to stop to take many photos, letting the momentum carry us into town, the wind rushing past our ears.

The descent through the canyon
The approach to Cedar City
Our last selfie of the ride

Cedar City is a bigger town and there were plenty of cars flying past us on the road. It was a rush for us to get all our chores done before the forecasted storms arrived. We grabbed a Kamping Kabin at the KOA Campground so we could stay dry, unpacked and had a quick shower, then rode our bikes back into town and dropped them off at Cedar Cycles to have them packed down and FedExed back to Houston for $115 each bike. It was sad to leave our bikes, knowing we wouldn't be getting back on them again in the following days.

Having completed our odyssey, we have finally found suitable names for them though. Steve's bike has been named "Mule" for carrying our tent, tool kit, spares and his heavy frame throughout the entire 2,900+ miles. My bike is called "Lacksadaisy" - she just takes everything as it comes in as calm and languid a manner as possible, getting me wherever I want to go.

After dropping our bikes off we found the Hong Kong Buffet, an all-you-can-eat buffet for $10.99 pp. We tucked in for dinner at 4pm and ate all we could for a solid hour. These two hungry cyclists certainly got their money's worth, not leaving until we felt like our bellies were about to explode. It's going to be hard trying to stop consuming everything we can get our hands on now that we are no longer riding, but we'll start worrying about that tomorrow.

Somehow I managed to consume as many calories as I burnt throughout this trip and have finished the same weight as I started. Steve on the other hand had lost about 7 kg by the half way point but since then has only lost another 4 kg. His beard grew about an inch during the 2 months and got more knotted by the day, curling into his mouth at night if he slept in the wrong position. Egg at some point during the ride just re-absorbed himself back into my butt.

As we walked back to the KOA it started drizzling and we made it back just in time before the rain started. Tomorrow we'll pick up a car rental for our last few days before we fly back to Houston from Salt Lake City on Tuesday. Let's see where the final days of this journey takes us.

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 2,935

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (46 miles per hour) Mandy (37.4 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 6

Bonks: Steve (1) - Day 46

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (7) Day 10 - because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery; Day 29 - because it takes me so long to get ready in the morning; Day 36 - because I was blogging and Steve was dieing of starvation; Day 44 - because the clothes dryer didn't dry his clothes; Day 45 - because by the time I got organised he didn't get to eat a crappy dinner until 8pm; Day 47 - because his bike shoes were smelly and wet from sitting in the pool of water around our tent yesterday afternoon

Mandy (3.5) 0.5 Day 14 - those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!; Day 26 - because my bike computer had a meltdown; Day 28 - because Steve wouldn't help hold my bike up in the wind after watching it nearly fall over 3 times whilst I tried to put my clothes away in the panniers because it looked like rain ahead; Day 44 - because Steve's bushies flew back and hit me in the face (twice)

Flats: Katie (4); Steve (1); Mandy (2)

Wrong turns: 8

Beer of the day: Payette Brewing Co Rodeo Rye Pale Ale (an Idaho beer in Utah......go figure)

Lesson of the day: a 235ml / 8oz tube of Chamois Butt'r lasts 44 days

No. of days with no shower: 20

No. of days in a hotel: 13

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

Day 30 Rawlins weigh in: Steve (183 pds / 83kg). Mandy (110 pds / 50kg)

Final weigh in: Steve (175 lbs / 79kg). Mandy (113 lbs / 51kg)

 

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Our penultimate day - Day 54: Bryce Canyon to Panguitch Lake (46 miles)

It's hard to come to terms with the fact that this Cranking Odyssey is coming to an end. With just these last two riding days to go, our motivation levels are dropping knowing that each mile we travel brings us one mile closer to reality. We're taking it easy to make sure we complete this odyssey on a high note without any more bonks, dummy spits, injuries or accidents.

At Bryce Canyon, we were back up at 8,000 feet so we waited for the morning to warm up before we got started. Although the temperature dropped to about 3C overnight, it was not too bad because it is a dry cold. By the time we headed out of the park and got breakfast in Bryce Canyon City, we didn't get going until about 10:30am.

Red Canyon

Our second last day on the road turned out to be a bit of a non-event after all that we have seen over the last 52 days. We started off by cruising down the bike path through Red Canyon where they have built tunnels into the rocks hanging over the roadway as a grand entrance to the approach to Bryce Canyon NP.

Red Canyon Bike Path and Tunnel
Red Canyon from the bike path

It was a relatively easy ride day as we got a nice tailwind after Red Canyon for about 5 miles to take us into Panguitch town where we had a coffee and doughnut stop (blueberry-lime doughnuts are delish!) and re-supplied for the coming night.

The rest of the ride up to Panguitch Lake was uphill with sections of Utah's short, steeper rises; pushing into a headwind through the alpine forest and hunting territory with many ATV trails heading off into the wilderness. The higher we got, the more the leaves on the aspens were turning golden.

Panguitch Lake

Panguitch Lake is very peaceful right now. I suspect it would be a very popular destination in the summer time for locals seeking a little relief from the Utah heat. We just made it in time for our last stay at a National Forest Service campground on this odyssey. The campground is closing in 4 days time for the end of the season.

Our last campfire

We have the campground almost to ourselves, going to sleep in the quiet of the night and smelling of smoke from our last campfire, listening to the cows mooing across the way.

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 2,893

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (46 miles per hour) Mandy (36.8 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 6

Bonks: Steve (1) - Day 46

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (7) Day 10 - because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery; Day 29 - because it takes me so long to get ready in the morning; Day 36 - because I was blogging and Steve was dieing of starvation; Day 44 - because the clothes dryer didn't dry his clothes; Day 45 - because by the time I got organised he didn't get to eat a crappy dinner until 8pm; Day 47 - because his bike shoes were smelly and wet from sitting in the pool of water around our tent yesterday afternoon

Mandy (3.5) 0.5 Day 14 - those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!; Day 26 - because my bike computer had a meltdown; Day 28 - because Steve wouldn't help hold my bike up in the wind after watching it nearly fall over 3 times whilst I tried to put my clothes away in the panniers because it looked like rain ahead; Day 44 - because Steve's bushies flew back and hit me in the face (twice)

Flats: Katie (4); Steve (1); Mandy (2)

Wrong turns: 8

Beer of the day: Wasatch Polygamy Porter

Lesson of the day: time really does fly when you're having fun!

No. of days with no shower: 20

No. of days in a hotel: 13

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

Day 30 Rawlins weigh in: Steve (183 pds / 83kg). Mandy (110 pds / 50kg)

 

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Hoodoo you love? - Day 53: Bryce Canyon (0 miles)

Looking into Bryce Amphitheatre from Sunrise Point

We thought that we had been impressed by all the canyons that we had seen so far, until we caught our first glimpse of the Bryce Amphitheatre. It was then that we were blown away. A fairy tale kingdom of different shades of pink and white hoodoos, fins, pockets, windows and cliffs opened into a vast arena before us, reminding me of a thousand different chess pieces joined together on a gigantic, open board.

We started our 6 mile hike at Sunrise Point, along with all the other hoards of tourists enjoying the mighty grand panoramic views from the view point, walked along the paved Rim Trail for more superb views at Sunset Point, then dropped into the canyon along the Navajo Loop so that we could walk through Wall Street, Bryce's only slot canyon.

Bryce Amphitheatre - Sunrise Point
Hoodoos everywhere
Hiking down Navajo Loop
Blue sky on Navajo Loop
Steve in Wall Street
Walking thru Wall Street

The entire amphitheatre is a photographer's delight, light and colour allowing for as much creativity as your imagination (and skill) allows. We were extremely lucky, having lucked into the bluest of blue blue-sky days which contrasted beautifully with the pink of the rocks. Our hike was extremely snappy happy.

Steve getting arty farty
Trail thru the canyon

Half way down the Navajo Loop we skipped across onto the Peekaboo Loop, hiking along the bottom of the canyon floor amongst all the trees and climbing back up again looking up at the variety of cliff formations from different levels and angles. The Wall of Windows was a highlight.

Taking a break on Peekaboo
Windows and lions
Right in amongst it
The Wall of Windows
The Wall of Windows
Coming up to Bryce Point

We hiked out of the Amphitheatre at Bryce Point and walked the Rim Trail back to Inspiration Point. From this angle of the view point, you could really see how concentrated all the hoodoos are in the Amphitheatre.

View from the Rim Trail
Looking towards Inspiration Point

The park has a free shuttle bus running a one way loop through the National Park and out to Bryce Canyon City that stops at all the view points. We took the shuttle back to the Visitor Centre to learn some more about the park and do some organising for the next couple of days, borrowing their Moon Guide Books on Utah to work out some logistics.

Our Odyssey is sadly coming to an end and with that knowledge comes the joy of trying to figure out how we are going to get back home to Houston. All will be revealed over the next couple of days.

Watching the sunset over Bryce Amphitheatre

We ended this enjoyable day sitting on a log bench with some local microbrew beers watching the sun go down over the Amphitheatre and staying up late (for us) to wait for the stars in all their magically bright glory to come out. They reckon you can see 5,000 more stars out here then you can back in the real world. I'd believe that!

Fading light over Bryce Canyon
Pink hoodoos over Sunset Point

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 2,847

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (46 miles per hour) Mandy (36.8 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 6

Bonks: Steve (1) - Day 46

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (7) Day 10 - because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery; Day 29 - because it takes me so long to get ready in the morning; Day 36 - because I was blogging and Steve was dieing of starvation; Day 44 - because the clothes dryer didn't dry his clothes; Day 45 - because by the time I got organised he didn't get to eat a crappy dinner until 8pm; Day 47 - because his bike shoes were smelly and wet from sitting in the pool of water around our tent yesterday afternoon

Mandy (3.5) 0.5 Day 14 - those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!; Day 26 - because my bike computer had a meltdown; Day 28 - because Steve wouldn't help hold my bike up in the wind after watching it nearly fall over 3 times whilst I tried to put my clothes away in the panniers because it looked like rain ahead; Day 44 - because Steve's bushies flew back and hit me in the face (twice)

Flats: Katie (4); Steve (1); Mandy (2)

Wrong turns: 8

Beer of the day: Uinta Hoodoo Kolsch Style Ale

Lesson of the day: the one way Interstate drop fee with Enterprise car rental is 47 cents per mile - that just blew our plans to drive back to Houston right out of the water!

No. of days with no shower: 19

No. of days in a hotel: 13

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

Day 30 Rawlins weigh in: Steve (183 pds / 83kg). Mandy (110 pds / 50kg)

 

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Pretty in Pink - Day 52: Escalante to Bryce Canyon National Park (56 miles)

I awoke this morning to slightly aching legs from trying to power my way up the steep inclines yesterday. That muscle right above the top of my knee was really feeling it.

Last night's pizza had kept us pretty full through the night, so we had the last 2 remaining slices for breakfast, sat down and had a very civilised cappuccino in the cafe, then hit the road at 8:45am.

Once we got going and the legs warmed up, everything was good except for the stupid headwind we had to push into on the gradual uphill. Feeling a little lazy, I let Steve do all the hard work up front for a while. 19 miles of climbing up to a 7,600 foot un-named summit from which we could see the Pink Cliffs of the highest layer of the Grand Staircase. We entered and left the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument again several times today. The most scenic views were definitely to be had during yesterday's ride on the eastern side of the monument.

Pink Cliffs of the Grand Staircase
The western side of Grand Staircase-Escalante

However, coming into the town of Henrieville, which had a post office and not much else, was quite pleasant with a distinct shaped white rock formation surrounded by green farming land and red cliffs behind it.

Cycling into Henrieville

Our lunch stop was at the Cowboy Grill food truck serving gourmet burgers and other things in the town of Tropic to fuel up for the climb into Bryce Canyon. From the road you can't really see too much of the canyons. At the trailhead to Moses Cave, there was a really neat formation to see from the road. The vibrant pink colours, spires and towers of the formations were really pretty.

Moses Cave Trailhead
Close up of the formations
Cycling in Bryce Canyon NP
Bryce Canyon NP

We'd decided we'd spend two nights in the park so we could have a day off the bike to go hiking and see some of the sights. However, by the time we arrived at about 3pm we nearly missed out on a campsite again. Could have been a campsite disaster twice this trip, but luckily we just got here about 30 minutes before the campground was full rather than 30 minutes after like our experience at Natural Bridges.

Scott had told us that there was a grocery store in the park, so we didn't get any food on the way in, but when we got here we found it wasn't so well stocked so it looks like we won't be eating too well for the next two days. But they do have beer!

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 2,847

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (46 miles per hour) Mandy (36.8 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 5

Bonks: Steve (1) - Day 46

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (7) Day 10 - because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery; Day 29 - because it takes me so long to get ready in the morning; Day 36 - because I was blogging and Steve was dieing of starvation; Day 44 - because the clothes dryer didn't dry his clothes; Day 45 - because by the time I got organised he didn't get to eat a crappy dinner until 8pm; Day 47 - because his bike shoes were smelly and wet from sitting in the pool of water around our tent yesterday afternoon

Mandy (3.5) 0.5 Day 14 - those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!; Day 26 - because my bike computer had a meltdown; Day 28 - because Steve wouldn't help hold my bike up in the wind after watching it nearly fall over 3 times whilst I tried to put my clothes away in the panniers because it looked like rain ahead; Day 44 - because Steve's bushies flew back and hit me in the face (twice)

Flats: Katie (4); Steve (1); Mandy (2)

Wrong turns: 8

Beer of the day: Moab Brewery Squeaky Bike Nut Brown

Lesson of the day: should have bought those dehydrated meals in Escalante when we saw them

No. of days with no shower: 18

No. of days in a hotel: 13

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

Day 30 Rawlins weigh in: Steve (183 pds / 83kg). Mandy (110 pds / 50kg)