Wyoming Winds - Day 27: Dubois to Lander (77 miles)

My "what if" fantasy while riding today - "what if" I was 5 inches taller AND 15-20 pounds heavier? Would I be able to roll down the hill without having to pedal furiously against the head wind just to move forwards?

The Dubois locals all told us that the prevailing winds came from the west, meaning we should have an easy ride from Dubois to Lander as we rode in a south easterly direction. I'm not sure if all the locals were just pulling our leg or if they were actually all just plain delusional, but we had a tailwind today for all of about half an hour out of Dubois, then it was head on for the rest of the ride.

I'm sure every time Steve turned around to check where I was, his beard was twitching with laughter as he watched my little legs going round and round pushing against the wind as he cruised down the hill barely pedalling, his weight and momentum making it easier for him to roll forward while if I wasn't pedalling, I would have been going backwards.

The winds first started toying with us in the middle of the night when we woke to our tent rattling and shaking, the leaves in the trees around us rustling as a wind storm blew through the campground. This was followed by a short smattering of rain. We knew then that we might have a bad day ahead of us.

The fingers of god shining down on us as we left Dubois

However, despite the winds the ride was still really enjoyable. As we left Dubois, we hit the Badlands which again came as a surprise to us, not knowing what to expect from Wyoming. This whole area seems virtually untouched except for the roads that have been forged through the plains. We got a sense of the areas rugged wildness as we cycled through, a vast expanse of land and geological formations as far as the eye could see, with very few buildings in sight. Part of the ride was through the Wind River Indian Reservation. Sadly, our only encounters with the Indians was seeing them pull up at the gas station in their big new trucks at Crowheart and Fort Washakie.

Today was also a day when the view in my rear view mirror competed solidly with the view in front of me, presenting a new perspective of the landscape from the flip side.

Looking behind us

We kept leap frogging the other cycle tourist from our campground last night. Turns out Chuck Daniels was riding across America on the Trans America trail in celebration of his 75th year. He wanted to go out and do something big. Chuck has already hiked the Pacific Crest Trail, the Continental Divide and the Apalachian Trail, so this time he turned to cycling. In another two years, he plans to cycle back across America in the reverse direction on the Northern Route. Chuck was such an inspiration and I hope we are still out and about on new, epic adventures when we are his age.

Crowheart Butte

The vast emptiness engulfed us

The open road

Lander is a very likeable town in the middle of Wyoming. Of course we headed straight to the micro-brew pub, Lander Bar and Garnett Grill, for a couple of pints of local brew and a really good burger. The people in the town and pub are so friendly. Wyoming gets my vote as one of the friendliest states in the U.S.

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 1,586

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (46 miles per hour) Mandy (35.4 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 1

Bonks: nil

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (2 - Day 10 because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery)

Mandy (1.5 - 0.5 Day 14 those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!; Day 26 because my bike computer had a meltdown)

Flats: Katie (4)

Wrong turns: 6

Beer of the day: Lander Brewing Rockchuck Rye

Lesson of the day: trust the Adventure Cycling Maps, not the locals - the maps said the winds in Wyoming are predominantly from the southeast and warned you can expect a head wind at any time!

No. of days with no shower: 11

No. of days in a hotel: 6

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

 

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Wyoming Turns It On - Day 26: Colter Bay Village to Dubois (66 miles)

We didn't really know what to expect from Wyoming, but today showed that, in addition to the National Parks, Wyoming has a lot to offer.

As we rode away from the Grand Teton NP, it seemed we were unable to escape the magnificent views of the Tetons. Every second bend in the road that we rounded brought the mountains back unto view behind us, presenting us with another angle and another forefront to the mountain backdrop.

Whilst up ahead of us loomed the buttes of Wyoming, in particular Pinnacle Butte, as we cycled through the Buffalo Valley. By the roadside yellow, lilac, and white wildflowers swayed in the wind.

Togwotee Pass

The 17 mile climb up to Togwotee Pass (also another crossing of the Continental Divide) at 9,584ft took us just over 3 hours total elapsed time including 2 breaks. Unexpectedly, this was quite an enjoyable climb as the gradient was mostly about 6%, sometimes less, and there were sections where we lost a little elevation along the way to give our legs a break, albeit for just a short while as we then had to climb back up all the elevation we lost and more.

The Brecia Cliffs kept coming in and out of view around each bend, providing us with a distraction from the climb. We really got to enjoy the views from this pass, taking it easy and taking the time to take it all in.

You can still see the Tetons behind you on the pass

Pinnacle Butte

Brecia Cliffs

After this we had a nice 23 mile descent into Dubois. Although highway 26/287 had a nice wide shoulder, a lot of it had bits of loose gravel on top, making us concentrate a little more than we wanted to on the descent.

Wind River

The narrow Wind River wound its way through ranches and pastures along Elk Ridge. One minute I was looking at the river, then after a short period of having my head down, I looked up to find the colourful Painted Hills in front of us as we neared Dubois (pronounced Du-boice) This was another unexpected surprise, as was the glorious tailwind that pushed us into town.

The Painted Hills

Dubois feels like a wild western, outlaw town left over from the mining days gone by. Hotels have safe post corrals for the horses and it seems everyone arrives with a horse trailer hitched to their truck.

It's our first night in a KOA RV Park & campground. We're stuck on a patch of grass in the middle of the RV park that has 4 tent sites, sharing with 2 off-road motorcyclists riding the Continental Divide, another cycle tourer, and Kevin and Dan who are on a mission to spread the word about Williams Syndrome. Kevin has cycled 5600 miles up, across and down America and now Dan has joined him taking the bike whilst Kevin runs another 2800 miles across the bottom of America!

Hopefully we are out of the cold weather for a while as we are back in high desert country. Dubois markets itself as the town of warm winds. I hope they are right and also that the winds will be blowing in our favour tomorrow.

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 1,509

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (46 miles per hour) Mandy (35.4 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 1

Bonks: nil

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (2 - Day 10 because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery)

Mandy (1.5 - 0.5 Day 14 those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!; Day 26 because my bike computer had a meltdown)

Flats: Katie (4)

Wrong turns: 6

Beer of the day: Grand Teton Brewing Old Faithful Ale (Pale Golden)

Lesson of the day: a shorter ride day followed by a big burrito and a soak in a cold water lake does wonders for your legs the next day

No. of days with no shower: 11

No. of days in a hotel: 6

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

 

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We're in Wyoming - Day 25: Grant Village to Colter Bay Village (42 miles)

Yellowstone Lake from Grant Village

Did I mention that we are now in Wyoming? We crossed from Montana to Wyoming yesterday at the West Entrance to Yellowstone NP which marks the border between the two states.

Last night it got bitterly, bitterly cold camping in the park. Not only are we ill-equipped for rain, but we are ill-equipped for the cold as well. My theory was that I would rely on the layering technique if I had to, and just put on every item of clothing that I had brought with me if it got really cold. Steve's theory, on the other hand, was that it just wouldn't get cold!

When we woke in the morning it was -1C and it had been even colder through the wee hours of the morning. And so we had our latest start of the trip so far, not leaving Grant Village until 11am after we waited for the sun to warm us up and dry out our tent and after we had ridden into the village for our morning cup of Joe.

Despite the late start, today was another grand ride day. I am glad that there have been so many more great ride days than bad ride days on this journey. As far as I recall, so far there have only been two days when I wished I didn't have to ride any further.

Another crossing of the Continental Divide

Lewis Lake

Lewis Falls

Lewis River

We rode through the rest of Yellowstone NP, passing the peacefully clear Lewis Lake, Lewis River, Lewis Canyon and Lewis Falls. As we descended down to the South Entrance of the Park, the Grand Tetons started to come into view through the pass. This is another of my favourite descents. The mountains are so majestic and so very beautiful. The further we rode, the closer and bigger the mountains got. The rolling ride along Jackson Lake with the Tetons across the shoreline was simply spectacular. It was hard to concentrate on the road.

First glimpse of the Tetons on our descent

The Tetons rising out of Jackson Lake

View of the Tetons from the highway

We've stopped for the night in Colter Bay Village in the Grand Teton National Park which is right on the lake. Right now I am sitting on the stony beach in the sun by the lake, listening to the water lapping on the shore and waiting for the sun to go down behind the mountains.

Jackson Lake at Colter Bay Village

Contemplating the view (and a wash)

Late afternoon sunlight filtering over the Tetons

Sunset behind the Tetons

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 1,443

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (40.4 miles per hour) Mandy (35.4 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 1

Bonks: nil

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (2 - Day 10 because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery)

Mandy (0.5 - Day 14 those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!)

Flats: Katie (4)

Wrong turns: 6

Beer of the day: Snake River Brewing Monarch Pilsener

Lesson of the day: as soon as the sun goes down behind the mountains it gets cold again

No. of days with no shower: 11

No. of days in a hotel: 6

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

 

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Two bison and a mule deer, but no bears - Day 24: West Yellowstone to Grant Village (56 miles)

Day 24 was another highlight day of this Cranking Odyssey. Yellowstone National Park lived up to all its expectations and more. In my opinion, everybody should visit this gem of a geological area at least once in their lives.

The road from the West Entrance

The Transamerica Trail took us through the south-western corner of the Park. This was just a minute portion of the Park overall, but what we saw made us want to come back some day and explore the other sections we didn't get to see.

We wanted to start riding early to beat the tourist traffic that the Adventure Cycling maps warns is heaviest from 12-5pm, but this was not to be. A thick fog had enveloped West Yellowstone severely cutting down visibility. We were ready to roll at 7:30 am but ended up waiting in McDonalds until 9:30am for the fog to lift. It was not until then that we felt safe enough to brave the road through Yellowstone NP with all the tourist drivers around us who were concentrating on looking at the scenery, rather than looking out for cyclists riding on the edge of the road.

Despite all the traffic, most vehicles were very courteous, except for the odd massive RV or campervan driven by people who probably shouldn't be driving them or who don't recognise the dimensions of their vehicle. Our riding comfort was also hampered by the narrow shoulders or lack of shoulders on the road.

We took time out to stop and look at the sites along the way. The ride, once again, was mostly uphill. We gained 1,400ft in elevation, crossing Craig Pass at 8,261ft and the Continental Divide Pass at 8,391ft. Neither pass was that long or that steep, but were just a little challenging on weary legs.

Our 3rd crossing of the Continental Divide this trip

As we rode, we saw a lot of geysers venting steam in the distance, thick green pine forest, grey leafless trees, rocky bluffs and anglers fishing in their little boats along the Madison and Firehole Rivers.

Madison River

View on the primitive bike trail

We took the opportunity to get off the busy road at Fountain Flat Drive, taking the gravel bike trail through the Middle Geyser Basin out to the Grand Prismatic Spring. I am so glad we opted for the touring tires on our bikes as they are highly versatile and seem virtually indestructible, letting us go almost anywhere. The decision to take this route rewarded us with two separate sighting of bisons.

Taking the touring bikes off road

Middle Geyser Basin

Grand Prismatic Spring

Sapphire Pool at Biscuit Basin

Biscuit Basin

Eventually we made it to Old Faithful at about 1:30pm, timing it perfectly as he went off just as we parked our bikes, venting steam high into the air, reaching the clouds or so it seemed.

Old Faithful

Kepler Cascades

Our campsite in Grant Village

Our destination for the night was meant to be Lewis Lake Campground which only has 7 first come, first served campsites. By the time we rolled into Grant Village where we were going to stock up with provisions for the night and next day, it was 4:30pm and we decided to call it a day rather than ride another 11 miles. Yep, we wussed out on making our planned destination for the second day in a row, but this time we could justify it as we still got to camp under the trees in Yellowstone NP and the store sold beer and firewood! Plus we saw a mule deer grazing.

The night got really cold in Yellowstone but our campfire and the gazillion stars in the finally clear sky above us made it all alright.

The new handcrafted hunting knife is dangerous!

CRANKING ODYSSEY STATS

Total Odyssey miles: 1,401

Overall Fastest Speed: Steve (39.9 miles per hour) Mandy (35.4 miles per hour)

Bludge Days: 1

Bonks: nil

Dog chases: 3

Dummy Spits: Steve (2 - Day 10 because it rained; Day 16 - because the rocks in the river were slippery)

Mandy (0.5 - Day 14 those freakin' wreckless Idaho drivers!)

Flats: Katie (4)

Wrong turns: 6

Beer of the day: Lewis and Clark Yellowstone Golden Ale

Lesson of the day: hunting knives are really sharp and Mandy cannot be trusted with one

No. of days with no shower: 10

No. of days in a hotel: 6

Starting weight: Steve (90kg) Mandy (51.5kg)

 

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